Fingermark or Golden Snapper are a premium table fish and highly prized among the north Australian fishing community for their looks, taste and fighting ability.
Fingermark fishing has become increasingly popular due to their aggressive hits and the challenges they present.
Not surprisingly, the techniques and principles to catch Fingermark are also incredibly effective for a wide range of structure-dwelling, foraging bottom fish. Primarily because they occupy a similar niche in all areas of the globe and thus have similar habits. Examples are Pink Snapper, Dhufish, Jewfish (Mulloway), and Emperor species.
Fingermark and fish like Pink Snapper have both a foraging habit (eating crabs, urchins and barnacles, etc.) and a predatory habit (eating live bait fish – herring is a favourite).
Any fish that foragers for invertebrates, crabs, and the like, but also has a predatory habit (will take a live bait) will respond to similar methods.
My interest in Fingermark stems from their brilliant eating quality.
After 30 years of chasing big barra for clients (which we released), we often stopped on the way home to pick up a feed for them.
My Mum’s old scrapbook is a good reminder of my thoughts on fishing over the years…
One of our most popular videos is on a “non-fishing” holiday with my wife and I “accidentally anchored” on a fingermark spot lol.
A large fish family Lutjanidae
A member of the Lutjanidae family, Lutjanus johnii are known around Australia by several names, golden snapper, fingermark bream, John’s snapper, big-scale red, goldy’s and spotted scale sea perch among a few others.
This is an issue with all fish species as they have different local names which vary geographically.
Here in Queensland, we just call them fingermark, primarily due to the dark blotch on the upper flank. Apparently back in biblical times St Peter brought a fish to Jesus marked with his thumbprint and many fish with a blotch on the side have common names derived from the story (John Dory/St Peters Fish, Moses Perch etc).
Regardless of how the blotch got there, fingermark are a stunning fish growing to around 90 to 100cm and even the smaller specimens fight surprisingly hard.
In the Northern Territory, however, they’re called Golden Snapper or Goldies – for the golden colour of their scales.
Foraging and Predatory
Like their Lutjanid cousins Mangrove Jack, Red Emperor and Papuan Black Bass, fingermark are an aggressive, broad-shouldered fish with prominent canine teeth. There aren’t many fish that can smash you like a Lutjanid hence their fearsome and thug-like reputation.
But unlike their cousins the Mangrove Jack, they not only use those canine teeth for smashing unsuspecting bait fish. They also eat crabs and other invertebrates, which broadens the locations you’ll find them. Fingermarks canine teeth are generally worn a bit more than a jack due to jacks being mostly predators.
As previously mentioned, many species occupy this foraging niche and some also have a predatory habit. It is these species that will respond well to these techniques.
Biology of Fingermark – Golden Snapper
The distribution of Fingermark/Golden Snapper throughout northern Australia, also inhabiting tropical inshore waters from East Africa to Fiji and northern Australia to just south of Japan.
To some, learning about the biology of the species is a bit too boring and scientific. But reality is, knowing your quarry when it comes to fingermark fishing is what makes all the difference between a fluke catch and anglers that experience consistent success.
It also has a direct bearing on the sustainability of fishing pressure.
Because let’s face it, we all want to be able to continue to catch and enjoy eating premium food fish for generations to come.
So back to fingermark – golden snapper…
Fingermark are particularly slow growing, living up to approx. 30 years and only reaching sexual maturity from 6-8 years of age and at sizes over 50cm. For fish that’s really slow.
Typically juveniles form schools that inhabit bays and estuaries whereas the adults can be encountered on coastal headlands, inshore islands and rubble pads. Pink Snappers are another species that do a similar thing, although adults can be found in slightly deeper open waters on rubble and deep offshore reefs as well.
Results of Suntag tag-recapture studies (infofish) indicate that immature Golden Snapper (20 cm-45 cm) shows a remarkable degree of loyalty to a particular location, with 80% of recaptures occurring within a 1 x 1 km area. Only 1% of fish moved more than 50 km with the greatest distance being 140 km.
Although I have seen periods when they leave systems entirely for some months. But upon return, hold on to the same spots.
Catch and release issues… Barotrauma.
Bulging eyes, bloating, and stomach distending out of the mouth, are all symptoms of barotrauma and can affect fish differently depending on species, size, depth, temperature and many other factors.
Barotrauma enlarges the swim bladder and puts pressure on other organs, as can be seen at 0.36 seconds in this video by NOAA.
According to one study, fingermark are apparently very susceptible to severe and fatal barotrauma in waters over 10 m in depth. You can view the effects of barotrauma on fingermark in this video by NT Govt.
If you watch the video however, you will see a number of fish in the cage and I wonder how long the fish were kept unvented before they were returned to depth. Plus the effect of the cage on fish already stressed may have increased mortality.
Barotrauma – bucking the trend.
It has always been my belief that fish vented quickly and returned to the water to swim back down is effective for most species.
I have personally recaptured Nannygai and Gold Spot Cod from Wonky Holes in 22- 26 metres, that have a venting scar from a previous release. Clearly survived to heal and feed.
I also know of two fingermark/golden snapper vented and released from 18 metres of water that were recaptured alive and well. One by members of the Cardwell Sportsfishing Club, tagged and recaptured actively feeding (took a bait) 4 miles away two weeks later and obviously well. The other was a result of sonar research tagging, recaptured in 13 metres of water some six months after being tagged.
So I do believe that undersized fish should be vented and released, (it’s not a lost cause) or released using a release weight for inexperienced venters.
However, to enhance the survival of catch and released fish, I recommend all my Finding Fingermark/Forager students move to shallower water to continue fishing once the esky is full No matter what the species.
Modern anglers are definitely trying to do the right thing. A 2010 survey of Qld recreation anglers revealed that 40% of Fingermark were released, however the actual harvest by the recreational sector is likely to be higher than estimated, depending on the depth of water fished due to deaths by barotrauma and shark depredation.
Golden Snappers are Highly Vulnerable to Overfishing
Back in 2013, the northern territory stocks of golden snapper were classified as an overfished stock. According to NT researchers, the probability of golden snapper experiencing current overfishing on accessible reefs was 99%! (Table 1)
Interestingly only 2-9% of estimated total catch of fingermark- golden snapper resulted from commercial fishing. So this was effectively a recreational fishing issue.
Most recent stock assessments
According to this table taken from the Status of Australian Fish Stocks (SAFS) Reports 2023 Golden Snapper are sustainable in all areas except the Darwin Region. This corresponds to “Accessible reefs” in Table 1 above.
Turns out, while it is in a 2023 report, much of the data is from older studies. It shows what a gap there is in fishing knowledge when it comes to stocks.
This can be a real problem when activists rally the public behind emotional causes – like the blue groper debacle in NSW – resulting in the closure of a fishery to recreational anglers with ZERO data on the subject.
Click here for more info regarding stock assessments on over 155 species in Australia.
It’s mostly good news for Golden Snapper though, except in built-up areas like Darwin where many anglers target the species.
But Why?
The main reason we have a sustainability issue in heavily fished areas for Fingermark is as follows;______________
- Life history traits – slow growing, late maturing,
- Congregate in one area plus use of GPS by modern fishers.
- Fatal barotrauma in waters over 10m deep
- Primarily harvested by the recreational sector with no routine way to collect catch assessment data (the commercial sector fills out catch log books)
- Incidental mortality (by barotrauma) is impossible to limit through regulations and can only be achieved by behavioural changes by recreational fishers i.e. Cessation of catch and release fishing once possession limit is reached and moving elsewhere to target other species.
- Depredation by plague proportions of whaler shark species in many regions due to extensive protection measures brought in since 2010.
But is it all doom and gloom?
Not if we are aware of the issues and adjust our behaviour accordingly.
It must also be remembered that the “depleted” NT figures are based on “accessible reefs” and there are innumerable areas that still hold good stocks.
For example, the video below includes underwater footage of a good school of reasonably sized Fingermark in the Hinchinbrook Channel.
In order to preserve these stocks, we must limit both the harvest and incidental mortality of golden snapper to prevent overfishing.
We can do this in 3 ways:
1. Abide by catch and possession limits.
Always check the current regulations before heading out as regulations change. At the time of writing regs are as follows but please use links to check current status.
Northern Territory Regulations: Possession limit 3 and vessel limits apply if more than 4 people are on board (e.g. max of 12 fingermark for 5–7 people, and 24 for 8+). No minimum size limit!
Queensland Regulations: Possession limit 5, minimum size 35 cm.
Western Australia Regulations: Possession limit 4, minimum size 30 cm
*Please note that these limits are subject to change and you should check with your local regulations.
2. Cease catch and release fishing once possession limit is reached and move elsewhere to target other species.
Where to Find Fingermark and other Foragers: Habitat & Hotspots
With the barramundi fishing closure in Queensland over summer, golden snapper/fingermark fishing intensifies and is one of our favourite pursuits.
Hinchinbrook holds good aggregations of Fingermark and they can often be encountered in shallower water making catch and release a viable option.
Areas I like to look for Fingermark are between 8-15m deep. In the creeks and estuaries look for deep pinnacles and ledges on a rubble bottom.
Seasonal Considerations
During winter, school-size fish inhabit inshore waterways in larger groups. They might not be in every spot, but when you find them they are generally in a big school. Larger versions of these species move out to the islands and headlands in winter into deeper water.
In summer these larger fish will move back inshore and into the shallows. Night fishing for fingermark can be especially productive as they move from cover to actively forage.
Additional Tools To Help You Find Aggregations
- Fingermark Strategies Workshop. Take the time to watch these videos on how I worked out Barra movements so well I can now predict where they will be based on conditions.
- Big Picture Sounder Workshop. A compliment to the Fingermark strategies workshop, sign up for this one a few days later as they both have a 5-day tips email series. One thing at a time is always best – the man who chases two rabbits catches none.
- Fingermark/Snapper cheat sheet. How fingermark and pink snapper stack – so you know exactly what to look for on your fish finder.
Structure is Key (sort of).
Like most demersal predatory fish they do love to hang on structure. But the foraging aspect of these fish will see them visit territories that have little or no structure – but rather a food source.
The predatory/foraging habits of Fingermark (and other similar species like Pink Snapper) make them a very versatile hunter.
Inshore/Estuary:
- Deep holes in creeks and rivers. Deep holes proved a good foraging area as twigs and rubble at the bottom hide prey species. You’ll also find herring schools at times.
- Rock bars and ledges. These areas provide structures like a sheer wall or drop off which can provide protection out of the run and foraging food sources.
- Bridge pylons and jetties. They move between shallow and deeper pylons on inshore areas depending on the run.
- Rubble on sand or mud flats. At certain times of the tidal cycle, their foraging ground will extend into the shallow flats and foreshores. During these periods, fish can even be caught off or near a beach, more often at night.
Nearshore:
- Deep isolated rocks or rubble patches. Fingermark can be found in far deeper waters (up to 40 metres) as long as the water is near the coast or island. This is where Pink Snapper differs as they will move further offshore.
- Wrecks. Foraging predators love wrecks as they attract a lot of bait fish especially herring – their favourite.
- Coastal headlands. Especially areas with a deep trench or the current touching it.
- Bommies and artificial reefs. Isolated bommies wide of fringing reefs around inshore islands is a popular haunt and isolated reefs are similar to wrecks in terms of bait attraction.
- Sinkholes. An inshore version of Wonky Holes attracts bait and thus predatory species.
- Changes in depth or bottom composition. These foraging areas may not be inhabited during the day, but go back at night and they are there.
Targeting larger fish
The larger fish are often found around inshore reefs and headlands. This short video shows a few caught on a trip to Cooktown in very shallow water.
Locating Fingermark/Snapper with Your Fish Finding Sounder:
Using a down image will give you an idea of the shape of the fish. If they are rounded and clustered into a school near the bottom they are most likely demersals like snappers.
Whereas if they are longer skinny stripes scattered in the water column, you’d guess they were mackerel or trevally.
Fish Finder tips:
- Use the highest frequency you can until it runs out of puff. Our Sounder Skills 2 course explains when you need to change over.
- Drive the boat slow (note pic above 1.53 knots). Our Sounder Skill 1 course explains the basics.
- CHIRP is beneficial when predatory fish are hidden in bait schools.
- Fish may show higher in the water column when actively feeding.
Best Times to Target Fish:
- Low Light: Dawn, dusk, and night are prime feeding times for all foragers, although they do spread out more at night.
- Tides: Naturally different strength tides will see them in different areas. Generally, after a tide change when the run picks up can improve catches. As they say no run no fun.
- Bait Aggregations: Foragers with a predatory habit can often be found around bait schools. Keep an eye out for herring schools on your sounder.
Golden Snapper (Fingermark) Fishing Techniques: Bait and Lure Masterclass
The Golden Rule – when using bait, fresh is best
Personally, I don’t fish for fingermark/golden snapper with dead bait. Livies are the go-to for me, as their predatory instinct is aggressive and will strike a moving target readily.
Live Bait (The Ultimate Weapon) for fingermark/golden snapper fishing: My choices in order…
Live Squid:
Considered the top bait for Fingermark. Catching live squid at night using light attraction is highly effective. Top Tip: I often catch my squid at the same location I am chasing the fingermark/snapper. See catch and rig live squid here. Using squid offshore at night can be effective for a range of species not just golden snapper.
Live Herring:
I have probably caught more fingermark on live herring than any other bait – primarily because on charter we mostly fished during the day when squid is harder to catch. They are readily caught around structures, from jetties, and in deep holes when the tide is right. You can get herring on bait jigs but my Top Tip: Use a drawstring not a bottom pocket cast net. Learn to throw without getting covered in muck with my “off the wrist” method.
Yellowtail (scad, chubb mackerel):
Advantage being they are easily caught on bait jigs.
Mullet:
Smaller sizes are best. See rigging mullet here.
Large, fresh Prawns:
I have caught them on prawns before while fishing for barra as they will take any live bait. But they’ll smash a squid or herring over a prawn in my experience. When rigging prawns be sure and rig them so they flick.
Garfish:
Not my go-to bait for fingermark, but they will take them.
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If you struggle to catch live bait quickly, our Locating Livies course can help.
>> Locating Livies Online Course – More habitats = More opportunities = Catch live bait quickly under any conditions.
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Dead Bait (Still Effective if fresh):
If you have caught fresh squid on the night and it has died, this will also work for golden snapper fishing.
Frozen mullet, squid, pilchards – not ideal.
Rigging for Success: Paternoster/dropper Rig:
My go-to rig for demersal fish like barramundi, fingermark (golden snapper), pink snapper, etc. when used with live bait. Dropper rigs also work well off rock walls as there is often not a lot of run and you also want to suspend the bait above the rocks.
We only use running rigs in shallow (under 5 metres) with running water. In deeper water live bait scenarios when you are fishing almost vertical (under the boat), a paternoster rig suspends the bait and means you are tight to the bait. Important for hard-striking, dirty-fighting fish wanting to smash you into structure.
- Setup: Sinker at the bottom, with one or more droppers (snoods) above for hooks.
- Benefits: Keeps bait off the bottom, presents bait in a manner that suits demersal predators and means you are tight to your bait.
- When to Use: Any deeper pressure points when chasing demersal predators with livies.
- Relevant links: 3 hacks to improve your paternoster rig and Running rig vs dropper rig in structure.
Gear and Tackle Recommendations for Golden Snapper/Fingermark Bream Fishing
When preparing for a fishing trip, having the right gear and tackle is crucial for success. This chapter provides a comprehensive list of recommended equipment and will also serve you well if chasing big barra. Additionally, we discuss the best bait and lures for fingermark, discussing their pros and cons, and what works best in various conditions.
Recommended Gear
Rods:
Rod selection for Golden Snapper/Fingermark fishing will depend on whether you are live baiting, trolling, or jigging. We have listed likely outfits in our gear and tackle cheat sheet. In short… Graphite/graphite composite or nano carbon rods for all lures work because you need directness when the fish hits and you get a better feel for what is going on. Live baiting is more passive (relying on the fish to hook up itself) so we need the line to stretch. See our blog mono vs braid for barra fishing.
- Live Baiting: We prefer to use 6’6″ fibreglass rods in an 8-10kg blank with a soft tip with a monofilament line.
- Jigging: 6’0″ to 7’0″ jig/spin blank in the 8-10 kg range, made of graphite composite or nano carbon with braided line.
- Trolling: Use your jigging rod or any lure casting rod you have on the boat.
Reels:
- Spinning Reels: Spinning reels are typically used for live baiting and jigging where a better retrieve rate is required. Reels in the 4000 size for jigging and 6000-7000 size range are best for live baiting. If you are going to use a spinning reel, be sure and take note of this tip to avoid line twist. By casting overhead you can reduce the dangers of hooking others and get more accuracy from your spinning reel.
- Baitcasting Reels: For more experienced anglers, baitcasting reels offer better control and accuracy when lure casting hard bodies into tight areas –> Baitcaster avoiding birds nest tips. Baitcasters come in similar sizes for different brands. So it comes down to budget and personal preference. This is where you’re better off heading to a tackle shop for advice or checking out our gear and tackle cheat sheet.
Here’s a general comparison between Spinning Reels VS Baitcaster Reels for Lure Casting. That said you can catch pretty big fish on kids’ rod and reel combos but I don’t recommend it as a regular practice.
Lines:
The following recommendations are only applicable if you have the correct drag settings and have a smooth well-maintained drag. We also suggest washing your reel and drag correctly to ensure…
- Braided Line (lures only): A braided line around 20lb is preferred for its low stretch, which is essential for feeling your lure’s action. Most brands have an 8-strand (around PE 2) that will suffice.
- Mono Line (live bait only): 10 kg mono is best and will land most fish – if drag is set correctly.
- Leader Line: A good quality fluorocarbon leader in the 60lb range will suffice but I prefer to use Ande for its durability and flexibility. It is imperative that you use the wind-on leader system and a longer (6-foot) leader line length when fishing around snags and structures.
The best way to set up your line is using the wind-on leader system, which ensures a smooth transition between your main line and the leader. This system reduces the risk of weak knots and allows for quick changes of leaders in the field. You can find more about the nine leader line myths and best leader line length here!
Hook Selection for Golden Snapper/Fingermark Bream
- Importance: Strong, sharp hooks are crucial due to their bony mouths and powerful fights. They will straighten weak hooks.
- Sizes: Vary from 6/0 to 8/0 is a good size for this popular sportsfish. I generally use 7/0 most of the time as it stops the smaller fish from getting gut-hooked and gives you a good chance on larger models.
- Types: I exclusively use Kahle hooks which are a type of circle hook. We have a blog on hook selection here. They reduce gut hooking in almost every instance. Top Tip: Allow the fish to take the bait first – resist the temptation to strike by leaving the rod in the holder and let the rod tip and hook do the work, explained in more detail here.
Lure Fishing: Golden Snapper/Fingermark/Pink Snapper
Golden Snapper (and other species that have similar habits) can be targeted with lures in a number of ways with the neaper tides always being the most productive;
Lure selection is determined by area, conditions (is the tide moving), and fish activity (are they stimulated).
Soft Plastics:
- Types: Jerk shads, paddle tails, grubs, squid-style plastics (e.g., Berkley Gulp Shads, Squid Vicious, Nomad Squidtrex).
- Sizes: 3-4 inches ideal, 5-6 inches for bigger fish (assess fish size with your fish finding sonar).
- Jighead Weights: 4-5/0 hook size is perfect but jig weight will depend on the depth and current – you need to be getting to the bottom. Fishing with jig heads covered here.
- Technique: Bouncing/jigging near the bottom, slow retrieving past fish, “dead sticking” (letting them sit motionless). Fish mostly take on the fall with all jigging practices.
- Colors: I prefer brighter lures for sunny days and darker lures for cloudy days – but switch it up as you never know what will turn them on. I believe colour is the least important aspect with action the real trigger.
Vibes (Hard & Soft):
- Effectiveness: Highly effective when jigging above aggregated schools.
- Examples: Zerek Fish Trap, Nomad Vertrex, and Chasebait Curly Vibe.
- Technique: Work with slower vertical lifts both constant and slightly erratic and then let them fall with a bit of slack to ensure action is not impeded. Important to find the fish first and use it on fish aggregations (rather than one or two foraging fish).
- Sizes: Between 80 and 100mm perfect for fingermark and other snappers.
Sinking Stick Baits:
- Effectiveness: My go-to replacement instead of vibes due to the fluttering in the fall. Meaning they vibrate on the fall (whereas vibes vibrate on the lift). Typically fish hit on the fall, so lures that look like an injured fish on the fall, instigate a bite better. You can also jerk the retrieve in several ways to mimic a dying fish on the lift and get their attention.
- Examples: Ryan Moody Fishing Pillager 36g
- When: I like to use our Pillager stick baits as a modern alternative to vibes for shallower water (depending on current but ballpark up to 20 to 30 meters for the 36g) and for deeper water up to 30-40 m we use heavier slow pitch jigs (see below).
- Technique: On the lift, both slow and faster erratic jolts to the rod tip mimic a dying fish. On the fall, let them sink without coming tight to the rod tip (to allow the flutter action). If you don’t leave a bit of slack between you and the lure the flutter won’t work.
- Sizes: Most are around 90 and 120 mm and all work well.
- Types: More about the three types of stick baits here.
Hardbody Lures:
- Types: Deep-diving lures (5 and 8-metre diving Scorpion). Plenty of others will work too, so your local tackle shop can advise you on popular deep-diving minnows.
- Technique: Trolling over structure, ensuring the lure dives to the fish’s depth or just above (e.g., in water less than 30ft/9m).This method is most effective around headlands and inshore reefs, using a deep diver to put your lure right in front of the fish.
Slow Pitch Jigs:
- Effectiveness: Can be very effective for turning on finicky fish.
- Examples: In deeper water up to 30-40 m we use our levitator jigs. They have a keel/asymmetrical design causing the jig to slide and dart – offering two different actions when they fall depending on the angle of the initial fall.
- Types: I like to use 60-80 gram lures depending on the current. Imperative you get to the bottom.
- Technique: Various slower and faster erratic upward jigging motions followed by a free fall with a little bit of slack between you and the lure. But be ready in the fall to be smashed.
The Power of Moving Water
Foraging species with a predatory habit are opportunistic feeders. During slack tides (periods of minimal water movement at high and low tide), they tend to be less active in predatory mode and more active as foragers, especially at night.
However, when the tide starts to run (either incoming or outgoing), magic happens. The movement of water stirs up baitfish, flushing them out of hiding places like mangroves and creeks. This is when fingermark and others like them come alive, making them more active and likely to strike a well-presented lure or bait.
The moving water will make fingermark move from areas related to their held-up, schooling, and dormant state to other areas for active deliberate feeding.
Prime Locations for Catching Golden Snapper
When it comes to fingermark/golden snapper fishing, Northern Australia offers some of the prime locations for anglers seeking to catch this prized species.
This chapter will guide you through top fingermark fishing spots across Northern Australia.
Additionally, we will explore some lesser-known locations and provide tips for accessing remote spots, along with stories of memorable catches and lessons learned on the water.
1. The Kimberley Region (WA)
- The Kimberley region in Western Australia is a fisherman’s paradise, boasting a vast network of rivers, creeks, and billabongs teeming with fish. This untamed frontier offers an unparalleled adventure alongside the chance to snag a trophy fingermark and also a barramundi.
- Prime Season: The Kimberley’s dry season (April to October) provides ideal conditions but they can be caught all year round.
- Fishing Grounds: These long rivers (e.g. Ord River, Pentecost River, and King George River system) flow fast and hard, and can be quite turbid. Great for Barra, but not for Golden Snapper who likes it a bit cleaner. The best bet for fingermark is the coastline headlands and inshore islands. Sometimes the lower estuaries may work as well on the smaller end of the tidal range. But be prepared as there are a lot of logistics required for this one.
- Insider Tips: Fishing in the Kimberley requires planning. The vast distances necessitate well-equipped boats and a healthy respect for the massive tides – these areas can encounter up to 11 metres of tidal range in a day. Engaging a local guide familiar with the region’s specific ecosystems is highly recommended. These rivers are teeming with large saltwater barramundi, but for a good feed of fingermark you’ll have to head to the coast.
2. Dundee Beach (NT)
- One of our favourite NT locations, Dundee Beach, southwest of Darwin is a hotspot for all manner of fishing.
- Prime Season: Dundee offers multiple opportunities for barra, big black jew, sailfish and golden snapper or goldies (as they are known). The sky is the limit in terms of the best season. For Fingermark the dry season is a prime period but HOT.
- Fishing Grounds: Again coastal and nearshore reefs and rubble are the go. At certain times the Dundee boat ramp can silt up so it can be tidal and watch the westerly swell as you retrieve your boat.
- Insider Tips: When we visit Dundee we always stay beachfront (incl. amazing food and an infinity pool) with Anglers Choice Safaris. Last trip we landed the Dundee trifecta – barra, jewfish, and sailfish in just two days. We were not chasing Goldies on that trip.
3. Hinchinbrook Island (North QLD)
- Hinchinbrook Island in North Queensland is a well-known destination for many species including King Threadfin, Barramundi, and Fingermark. It’s not just the Hinchinbrook channel that has a lot to offer, but also the headlands and islands. I have caught over 1500 saltwater barra over a metre in this region over the years (watch our Big Barra series for a ton of them) and remains in my opinion, the most beautiful fishing destination to catch metre plus barra in Australia. But when I want to take a feed, I chase Fingermark.
- Prime Season: August to January are the prime times to hit Hinchinbrook. My brother, Ian Moody, takes fishing charters in the area and can be contacted via his Ian Moody Sportsfishing Facebook Page. That said, winter is a good time to find aggregations of smaller fish. Which is also something that Snapper does in Moreton Bay.
- Fishing Grounds: Haycock Island on the inside offers some good deep holes, ledges and herring! Down that way is also a series of southern headlands near The Bluff which have good sharp ledges and lots of rubble bottom. Another hotspot is Missionary Bay – it can offer reasonable protection in the south easterly. The rivers don’t run very hard so fingermark can be readily caught up the rivers as well. Eva Island and the Family Group of Islands to the north are also picturesque as well as good fishing. These can be reached in a small boat but do watch the weather.
- Insider Tips: Big tides fish Missionary Bay. Small tides fish the channel.
Memorable Catches and Lessons Learned
Most of my Fingermark fishing has been in the saltwater reaches of estuaries, around headlands and in bays and I’ve had some very memorable catches over the years. As far as memorable catches for me, a few come to mind.
1. Potential Australian Record on 8kg line.
On the biggest Fingermark/Golden Snapper caught on a charter with me weighed in at 12.12kg which was potentially an Australian record of 8kg. Not sure if the angler, Cowboys winger Cameron McNab, claimed the record. The fish was caught on a live squid. Learn to rig them here.
I have caught one bigger – at Cattle Creek Shoals, north of Townsville also in the 1990’s. When I describe it I say it was as big as a car door lol. But it was night time and we had no camera, so we released it beside the boat without even pulling it out of the water.
I’ve also seen a fingermark about this size (12kg) bite a mackerel in half. While fishing with former Bumper Bar lures owner Tim Staudinger, catching big school mackerel in Cleveland Bay on metal slices. When one of the mackerel surfaced next to the boat, a giant fingermark shot out from under the boat and bit it clean in half. I was surprised it bit it cleanly in half as they don’t have what I would consider slicing teeth. Just the power in the jaws from the sheer size of it was obviously enough.
2. Fingermark on the surface
One of the advantages of spending decades on the water is that you see some cool things outside the box. It’s what helps piece the puzzle of fish behaviour together so that I can reliably predict when and where fish will be. It’s what I teach my students in our Finding Fingermark (and other foragers) course.
One of the most unusual and rare (you need special circumstances) ways is to cast surface lures at them. As shown in this video. This is only one of about six times I’ve been able to manage this in 30 years on charter.
On this occasion, I almost drove straight through the school, but once I realised what was happening, I circled back and got a lure in the water as soon as I could. As soon as the lures touched the surface they were smashed.
Fingermark for Future Generations
To ensure fingermark will be around for my sons to catch well into the future, I have always made sure that when I fish a spot I leave it alone for a while and concentrate on others plus, after we have caught a few, we move on to another spot or species.
It’s one of the advantages of having a multitude of locations so you can mix and match depending on the conditions. It’s what we teach in our Finding Fingermark (and other foragers) online course. You can check reviews of the course > here.
I don’t believe in thrashing spots to death so that’s why I invest in a Garmin side scanner which allows me to find numerous areas to rotate my fishing days around.
It’s very important to practice responsible fishing for this species and I hope this post has brought to your attention the issues surrounding sustainability.
Catch and Release Best Practices
Catch and release is not always an option for fingermark – primarily because they are more an eating fish than sportsfish.
And they can be susceptible to barotrauma.
However, if you have reached your bag limit or catch a small one, here are a few best practices for Fingermark/Snapper Catch and Release:
Minimise Time Out of Water
- Quick Handling: Minimise the time fish spend out of the water. I know that taking a photo of your catch is an essential part of the fishing experience. But it must be done quickly and efficiently to reduce stress, and potential injury and to ensure the fish’s survival. This is why I stopped tagging fish in the early days. I’d have two anglers on and two fish already on the deck and just didn’t have time to measure and tag without risking fish wellbeing. It’s also why I don’t use a net. The lure/hooks get tangled in it and make the release a longer process. I can comfortably hold a fish into the boat, remove hooks, photograph it, and get it back into the water in under a minute.
- Wet Hands and Surfaces: Always wet your hands before handling fingermark/golden snapper or any fish, to protect their slime coating, which is essential for their health. Use a wet cloth or landing mat to avoid contact with dry & hot surfaces. Reminder, a burning hot aluminum tinny surface that will fry an egg is not a good place for a fish! That said Golden Snapper are very hardy in comparison to Threadfin Salmon.
Support the Fish Properly
- Horizontal Support: ALWAYS support the fish’s weight horizontally using both hands. DO NOT hold the fish vertically by its gills, as this can cause internal injuries and stress. They just do not have the musculature and structure to support their weight by hanging from the head unless they are very small.
- Avoid Touching Sensitive Areas: Do not touch the fish’s eyes or gills, as these are very sensitive and can be easily damaged.
- Do not place fingers in the mouth: Golden snappers are Lutjanids and have large canine teeth. Use a fish grip in the mouth but always place a hand under the belly to support larger fish.
Use Appropriate Gear
- Knotless Landing Nets: If you’re not familiar with proper lifting & holding techniques I recommend using a soft, knotless landing net to minimize the loss of protective slime and scales. This increases the fish’s chance of post-release survival.
- Barbless Hooks: If you are traveling remotely or are worried about hooks, please use barbless hooks or debarb your hooks to make them easier to remove. This will reduce injury to the fish and yourself –> How to crimp barbed hooks! I personally don’t crimp or use barbless unless I’m going remote. You will jump fish off barbless hooks more often than barbed for obvious reasons.
- Long Nose Pliers: Use long nose pliers for quick, easy, and safe hook removal. Handle the fish gently and avoid unnecessary roughness.
Release the Fish Correctly
- Revive Tired Fish: If the fish is tired, hold it gently in the water in an upright position. There is no need to drag it around to run water over its gills. Demersal fish like golden snapper are not pelagics and can easily sit still using their gills to draw water in. When they are ready, they will go on their own. NOTE: The only caveat to this method nowadays is the prevalence of sharks, and to some degree, crocs in our estuaries. An alternative is to use a landing net, remove the hooks, and leave the fish in the net for release. Thereby keeping hands away from the water.
- Release in Safe Areas: Release smaller fish into bank-side covers or snags to provide protection while they recover.
Handling Deeply Hooked Fish
- Cut the Line: If the fish is gut-hooked, cut the line close to the mouth and leave the hook in place. This reduces the risk of further injury. I have seen many fish over the years with partially rusted-out hooks and do believe they have a chance if injuries are not sustained trying to rip the hook out. On one occasion I caught a Fingermark trailing a wire trace, snap swivel and 7/0 hook out its anus – protruding 20 cm. The fish had obviously passed it. I guess they eat barnacles, urchins and other sharp things and perhaps have a stomach designed for sharp objects. I don’t know!
- Remove Hooks in Water: If practical and safe, remove the hooks while the fish is still in the water to minimize handling stress. If you are not chasing a photo, it’s easy with the bent nose pliers to twist the hooks out in situ.
Fingermark/Golden Snapper on the table
The white flesh of a Golden Snapper or Pink Snapper for that matter, is second to none.
Naturally with most fish, the small (legal) to medium size specimens are best, and anything over 6-7kg starts to lose their eating qualities.
Here’s a neat filleting trick that is demonstrated on a barra but works equally well on a golden snapper.
Eating fresh fish is not only good for your health, but catching them is even better, according to health and wellness coach Nikki Fogden-Moore.
Fingermark/Golden Snapper and similar species are extremely versatile with regard to cooking. Here are two of our catch-and-cook blogs to give you some recipe ideas.
Unlock the Secrets of Fingermark Fishing with our FREE Fingermark Strategies Workshop!
As we wrap up our discussion, it’s clear we’re just beginning the exciting journey to truly master fingermark fishing. We’ve touched on essential elements like identifying prime locations, selecting the right gear, general techniques, and the importance of responsible fishing. However, as you can see, becoming proficient at catching fingermark demands continuous dedication, learning, and refinement. There’s still so much more to uncover to become a truly skilled fingermark angler. Plus, with so many variables, it can be quite perplexing to decipher their patterns.
If you’ve ever meticulously planned a fingermark fishing trip, only to be met with disappointing results, you’ll understand the frustration. It’s disheartening when things don’t go as expected, often leading to either giving up entirely or igniting a stronger desire to crack the code and make things work.
If you’ve been reading this far, you probably relate to one of these common challenges:
- Inconsistent Catches: Do you struggle to consistently land fingermark/golden snapper? Perhaps you’d like to start targeting larger, trophy-sized fish? It’s frustrating to invest your valuable time and resources without seeing the results you anticipate.
- Lack of Proven Tactics: Are you tired of guessing where to find fingermark and when they’ll be active? Without effective, proven strategies, your fishing trips can feel like a gamble. Or maybe you’re out on the water, wondering if you should keep trying or just head home?
- Limited Time: Many anglers simply don’t have endless hours to spend experimenting on the water. You need strategies that maximize your time and effort to ensure successful outings.
That’s precisely why we’re excited to offer you our FREE Fingermark Strategies Workshop! This workshop will reveal the exact process I’ve personally used to understand fingermark movements over time.
What You’ll Gain from Our Workshop:
- Proven Processes: This workshop shares the precise approach I’ve employed to learn fish patterns and anticipate their movements. It’s all about fishing for golden snapper/fingermark with a clear strategy and transforming your fishing efforts into consistent catches. We start with the easiest wins, particularly focusing on fingermark or snapper aggregations. However, it will require you to rethink how you approach your fishing trips – yes, that means breaking some old habits! If you’re a beginner, even better, as you won’t have any ingrained “bad habits” yet. It’s truly surprising how many people I observe fishing and essentially wasting their time. Sure, you might occasionally hook a good fish by chance, but I firmly believe that successful fishing is about skill, not luck!
- Step-by-Step Guidance: Across three concise videos, we break down complex techniques into easy-to-follow steps. You’ll learn both the underlying theory and practical application, ensuring you can replicate these strategies on your own trips.
- Efficiency: Save valuable time by learning how to quickly and effectively identify fingermark behavior patterns. Once you can predict fish movements, you’ll spend less time searching and significantly more time catching.
Join thousands of satisfied members who have dramatically improved their catch rates and overall fishing enjoyment. Whether you’re just starting out or you’re a seasoned angler, our workshop offers valuable insights for everyone.
It consists of two videos, and I’m sure you’re going to love it.
As a valued member of our community, you’ll also receive:
- Weekly Fishing Tips: Get complimentary fishing tips from master angler Ryan Moody every week, keeping you updated with the latest insights and techniques specifically for fingermark.
- Chance to Win: Enter for an exclusive opportunity to win a fingermark fishing session with me, providing you with invaluable hands-on experience and expert guidance.
- No Commitment: You can easily unsubscribe at any time if you find the content isn’t providing the value you expected.
Click the button below to sign up and begin your journey toward becoming a truly skilled angler – it’s free and only takes about 40 minutes to watch both videos.
